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In 1982 the author set out in an old, made-over ketch, to the only wilderness left the sea Unlike his predecessors, he was not weighted down by 'testaments, theories and dogmas' he wanted to find out what made his own 'peculiar country tick' and, in so doing, he charted the coastline of his past, took soundings for the future and unfurled a map of Britain that is comedy and tragedy in one