It's a hard road

Especially on an old bike and with little money, but harder still is resisting the urge to ride. This is a journey of thrill and despair as the author heads into heavily armed Iraq, barely unable to escape the overwhelming hospitality and humbling generosity.

On the verge of discovery

Ureka is an almost accidental realisation that we can't always control where the road takes us. However, accepting the direction, we find what we need to and that can be the most fulfilling travel experience of all.

How do you sum up a 15,000 mile motorcycle ride through 23 countries?

· Upon leaving the UK, Europe was in the way;

· Iraq was on the way, and worthy of a diversion;

· Turkey became an acquired taste;

· Georgia offered more diversity than one visit could cover;

· The Caspian Sea was a cause for reconsideration;

· A moment of planet-alignment occurred and the journey found purpose;

· The Caucasus called him back for deeper penetration;

· Armenia was a rough diamond;

· Thoughts leaned towards Bulgarian relocation whilst riding the Balkan backroads;

. Former Communist Europe had a raw but brutal beauty;

· An old flame was rekindled in Austria;

· Climaxing in an Alpine finale;

· A French food extravaganza;

· And Iron Maiden topped off the trip.

With a passport full of unused visas

The author turned his back on the Caspian Sea, but this U-turn was the Ureka moment.