An ancient land, Syria is continually ripped by civil war and strife. That s one way to look at Syria. History and today s news certainly prove it to be true. But if we stop to look closer, beyond the fighting and politics, we can find another Syria. This is also a land of kind and generous people. For centuries Syrians have welcomed visitors from all over the world. They love to share their spicy food, rich crafts, and colorful culture. The world has always followed well-worn paths to their door. Aleppo s shops and markets draw people now, as they have since before recorded history. Damascus, with its Umayyad Mosque and Old City, is a time machine. Visitors there step through gates that lead back to the time of camel caravans and Ottoman sultans. Syria, beyond the burst of bombs and gunfire, is the glory of ancient empires mixed with the throb of modern cities. Old and new customs mingle. Guided by Sabeen, a refugee from the war, you ll discover the real Syria as it was and still can be.