嘉兴·市菜 (Jiaxing·City Cuisine)

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By 《中华市菜文化丛书》编委会

cover image of 嘉兴·市菜 (Jiaxing·City Cuisine)

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经典美食,在人们生活的记忆中留下挥之不去的情愫,特别是在国际旅游业蓬勃发展的今天,已然成为一个城市或地方的名片,吸引了世界各地游客。在我国,许多美食名称前被冠以出产这个美食的城市名,如北京"烤鸭"、广州"烤乳猪"、南京"盐水鸭"、济南"糖醋鲤鱼"等等。在过去,一个城市的美食品种,由于交通上的局限性,只能在一个地方的民间或食肆间流行,具有明显的地域特色,逐渐就成为了该地区的"美食"代表。随着经济社会的发展,城市之间的交流越来越多,饮食的融合也越来越多,而当地人的饮食风格却依然没变,这些"美食"品种恰恰又是其他城市(地方)所没有的。这种具有城市特色的饮食得到了人们越来越多的青睐和关注,由此便成为这个城市的饮食代表,被人们称之为"市菜"。我们常说,城市名片体现这个城市的特色,融汇城市自然、人文的精华。"市菜"涉及城市中人们的生活方式和饮食历史,它反映了一个城市的经典美食和饮食文化,富有显著地域文化特征。用"市菜"作为城市的名片,具有城市的独特识别性,有利于提升城市知名度、美誉度,促进城市的经济、文化、社会发展。饮食文化,在文化的百花园中是一朵令人瞩目的奇葩。在20世纪末,中国烹饪大师、中国鲁菜文化传承代表人、海参饮食文化的倡导者高速建先生就提出了"市菜"的概念,以期通过"市菜"的挖掘,引起公众对当地饮食文化、民风民俗的关注,为"市菜"的传承和发展注入活力。《中华市菜文化丛书》就是在这样的背景下诞生。《中华市菜文化丛书》从都市饮食文化的角度,通过对"市菜"文化的挖掘,彰显一个城市的饮食文化精髓,它的意义又将远远超出饮食文化的范畴,是在更广阔的领域里,从城市的历史文化积淀、保护与传承的角度来诠释地域饮食文化对一个城市的重要意义。一部《舌尖上的中国》的纪录片,触动了无数华夏儿女的饮食遐想与乡土情怀。《中华市菜文化丛书》的面世,不仅能够引起人们对饮食文化品牌的重视,还能够展示形形色色的城市人文风情,触发人们对生活的或曾经生活的某个城市的乡土情怀。市菜——城市靓丽的名片。相信通过《中华市菜文化丛书》的传播与影响,能让"市菜"这张靓丽的城市名片,在世界文化之林中发出熠熠绚丽的光彩。(Classic cuisine can leave a long-lasting impression in people's life and memory. Particularly with the prosperity of international tourism today, it has become the business card of a city or a place, attracting tourists worldwide.In China, many dishes are renamed by adding the name of the city where they were created, like Beijing "Roasted Duck", Guangzhou "Roasted Suckling Pig", Nanjing "Salted Duck" and Jinan "Sweet and Sour Carp", etc.In the past, due to limitations of transportation, the cuisine of a city became popular only among the local residents and restaurants. As a result, it takes on obvious geographical features and gradually becomes the representative of cuisine of the place.With the development of economy and society, cities have more communication and there is more fusion in food. The local people's diet, however, still remains the same, which makes the local "cuisine" unique in the city and can't be found in other cities (places).With more and more attention, this city-specific food has become the representative of the food of the city and is called "City Cuisine".We often say that the business card of a city embodies its features and integrates the natural and humanistic essence."City Cuisine" involves the lifestyle and diet history of city residents, represents the classic cuisine and food culture of a city and therefore has obvious geographical characteristics.As the business card of a city, "city cuisine" becomes a uniquely recognizable symbol of it and can help to gain more popularity, improve reputation, and promote the economic, cultural and social development of the city.In the flower garden of culture, food culture is a remarkable and eye-catching flower.In the late 20th Century, Mr. Gao Sujian a Chinese cooking master, Shangdong cuisine cultural heritage representative and advocate of sea cucumber food culture, brought up the concept of "City Cuisine" in the hope to attract public attention to local food culture, folk traditions and folk customs through digging in "City Cuisine", and to pump life into the heritage and development of "City Cuisine".It is based on this background that Chinese City Cuisine and Culture Collection was written.From the perspective of city food culture, Chinese City Cuisine and Culture Collection manifests the essence of the food culture of a city by digging in "City Cuisine" culture, therefore the significance of it will go beyond the scope of food culture and will interpret the significance of local food culture to a city in a larger sense from the aspect of the historical and cultural accumulation, protection and heritage of a city.The documentary, A Bite of China, touches countless Chinese people's imagination of food and affection for homeland.The publication of Chinese City Cuisine and Culture Collection can not only draw...

嘉兴·市菜 (Jiaxing·City Cuisine)