In this personal essay, the author chronicles her trip to Riga, capital of Latvia, a journey she undertakes in an effort to track the mysterious past of her much-maligned father. She learns a lot about the region—and his youth. She soon discovers that Riga, the Baltic States' largest city rocks on with clubs, casinos and strip shows. Also cultural fests with the National Opera, Ballet and Symphony, as well as museum and gallery exhibits and gourmet shopping and dining. Then there's the dark side...."Oh Daddy I miss you. I only wish I could have told you how much when we were together. But then I hardly knew you. Why did you have to leave Africa when I was 10? Why did you go to America? I only really knew you five years and that's hardly enough time. But we did have fun. If you were here today I'd go with you to synagogue and let you buy me High Holiday tickets and we could stand and pray together. Then get matzo ball soup. Rest in peace, my Jankela...From your Cookela."